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Which U.S. Coin Price Guide Is The Best? (Red Book vs. Blue Book)

by Joshua McMorrow-Hernandez

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Price guides are an essential part of coin collecting — whether you’re a beginner or an expert.

Not only do they provide current prices for all of your U.S. coins, but they’re also loaded with tons of useful information about coins.

Where do you think I learned everything I know today?

Only half of what I know came through the actual experience of owning coins. The other half is from reading through several price guides, coin books, and articles on coins!

The Top Price Guides For U.S. Coins

Following are some of the differences between the most popular U.S. coin price guides.

There are several U.S. coin price guides out there made by different companies, however only a handful of them stand out from the rest.

The one I use the most is the Red Book by Whitman Publishing.

Whitman is one of the most popular distributors of coin supplies, and they are frequently referred to by coin dealers as a reliable source of information about U.S. coins and American currency.

Official Red Book Coin Price Guide

The Red Book, published by Whitman, is updated every year.

The Official Red Book coin price guide shows what you should expect to pay if you buy a coin... and much more!

The Red Book provides coin prices as well as hundreds of high-resolution full-color coin photos (including crisp close-ups for detecting errors), clear mintmark location diagrams, exhaustive historical write-ups for every coin series, and explanations of how to grade your coins.

It’s a book that has been trusted by coin collectors for over 8 decades due to its historical data, current prices for all U.S. coins — including:

  • Colonial / early American coins and tokens
  • Early Mint issues
  • Regular Mint issues
  • Proofs
  • Private, state, and territorial gold
  • Silver and gold commemorative issues

The prices represent retail value – the average price you can expect to pay when buying a coin from a coin shop, online dealer, or coin show. Therefore, prices include the dealer’s profit margin, overhead costs, and store markup.

The Red Book price guide is best used when you’re:

  • Budgeting for your collection
  • Insuring your coins 
  • Checking if a dealer’s asking price is fair

Official Blue Book Coin Price Guide

The Official Blue Book coin price guide shows what you should expect to receive if you sell a coin... and much more!

There is also a Blue Book, published by Whitman (just like the Red Book).

The difference between the Red Book and the Blue Book is:

  • The Red Book shows what you should expect to pay for a coin you’re interested in buying — thus it’s best used as a “buying guide.”
  • The Blue Book shows what you should expect to receive if you sell a coin — thus it’s best used as a “selling guide.”

So, if a specific silver coin is listed in the Red Book for $50, you will likely see that exact same coin listed in the Blue Book for around $30 to $35. That $15 to $20 gap represents the standard dealer “profit margin” required to keep a coin shop in business.

The prices in the Blue Book represent wholesale value — the average amount a coin dealer will offer to pay you when they buy coins for their inventory. That’s why this price guide strips out retail markups… so the dealer has room to make a profit when they eventually resell the coin.

The Blue Book price guide is best used when you’re:

  • Inheriting a coin collection
  • Liquidating your coins
  • Getting a realistic baseline of how much cash you can walk away with at a coin shop

Both the Red Book and the Blue Book are published annually and share the exact same coin layouts, historical blurbs, and mintages, but their pricing models serve opposite sides of a coin buying/selling transaction.

As long as you’re aware of the “audience” each book was written for, you can safely use either price guide with confidence!

Why The Official Red Book Coin Price Guide Is Best

In addition to being updated annually, the Red Book comes in a lot of different formats (hardcover, spiral-bound, and large-print editions) that are designed to stand up to heavy use.

Also, the Red Book has full-color photos and a lot more details about the coins, compared to other price guides.

Some of the details that I find most helpful in the Red Book are:

After 80 years of publication, the Red Book remains the undisputed “Bible” of the coin collecting hobby.

For all of those reasons, I find myself using the Red Book practically every single day.

Which Red Book Format Is Best?

The Red Book is available in a number of premium, durable book options — including hardcover, spiral-bound, and large-print editions.

Spiral bound is arguably the best format — simply because the book is easier to work with. The spiral binding allows the book to lay completely flat on your desk or table. This keeps your hands completely free to hold a magnifying glass and examine a coin while you read the specific diagnostic text about that coin.

While advanced versions of the Red Book exist (“professional edition” and “mega red deluxe edition“), the standard “regular” edition is specifically designed for beginners.

Why? Because it teaches you the fundamentals without overwhelming you with institutional data! It strikes the perfect balance for anyone getting started in coin collecting for these 2 reasons:

  1. It includes crucial beginner tutorials. Unlike the “professional” versions that strip out basic content to make room for dealer data, the “regular” edition includes important introductory chapters. It teaches you how to handle coins safely, how the 70-point Sheldon grading scale works, and how to identify mintmarks.
  2. It focuses on the grades of coins you will actually find. New collectors will mostly be looking at coins in “circulated” or “standard uncirculated” grades. The regular edition outlines pricing for these exact, realistic grades. Advanced editions focus heavily on registry-set qualities (like MS-67 or Proof-69) and niche strike designations that you won’t encounter early in your hobby.

How To Decipher The Codes In U.S. Coin Price Guides

Inside of these coin price guides, you will find abbreviations such as G, VG, F, VF, EF, AU, MS, PF, BU, etc.

You’re probably wondering, “What do these abbreviations mean?”

If you happen to open up one of these books and try to find the price of a coin without reading the front sections first, you may be a little baffled. In short, the abbreviations refer to the grade of a coin (or its “condition”).

Here is what the coin grade abbreviations inside coin price guides mean:

G = Good – Refers to a coin with a grade of Good
VG = Very Good – Refers to a coin with a grade of Very Good
F = Fine – Refers to a coin with a grade of Fine
VF = Very Fine – Refers to a coin with a grade of Very Fine
EF = Extra Fine – Refers to a coin with a grade of Extra Fine
AU = About Uncirculated – Refers to a coin with a grade of About Uncirculated
MS = Mint State – Refers to a coin with a grade of Mint State
PF = Proof – Refers to a Proof coin
BU = Brilliant Uncirculated – Refers to a coin or roll of coins in Brilliant Uncirculated condition

Now, there are several levels to each coin grade. Even if the difference between two of the same coin is only one number and not detectable to the naked eye, the difference in price could be a lot!

For example, coin grades will contain levels such as G-4, VG-8, F-12, VF-20, EF-40, AU-50, MS-60, PF-70 and everything in between.

Of all the coin price guides I’ve explored in my 35+ years of collecting coins, the Red Book tends to be more helpful for beginners when trying to identify the grade of a coin. (However, being able to accurately grade a coin comes mostly from experience and a keen eye.)

PUBLISHED August 15, 2026
UPDATED September 7, 2026

Joshua McMorrow-Hernandez

Numismatic Specialist

Hi, I’m Josh! I’m the Editor here at the US Coins Guide. My love for coins began when I was 11 years old. I primarily collect and study U.S. coins produced during the 20th century.

I’m a member of the American Numismatic Association (ANA) and the Numismatic Literary Guild (NLG). I have won multiple awards from the NLG for my work as a coin journalist. I’m also the editor at the Florida United Numismatists Club (FUN Topics magazine), and author of Images of America: The United States Mint in Philadelphia (a book that explores the colorful history of the Philadelphia Mint). I’ve contributed hundreds of articles for various coin publications including COINage, The Numismatist, Numismatic News, Coin Dealer Newsletter, Coin Values, and CoinWeek.

I’ve authored over 1,000 articles here at the US Coins Guide (many with over 50K shares).

I welcome your coin questions!

46 responses to “Which U.S. Coin Price Guide Is The Best? (Red Book vs. Blue Book)”

  1.  Avatar
    Anonymous

    Can you tell me the value or 2 pennies.
    One is a 1914 (There is no D or S) in fair shape. Easily can read both front and back.
    The second is a 1944(D) penny in fair shape

    1.  Avatar
      Anonymous

      Drenlab,

      The value of a 1914 Lincoln cent in the condition you’re describing would be about $1 to $2. The 1944-D, however, is worth only about 10 cents.

  2.  Avatar
    Anonymous

    Type your comment here.can you tell me the value of a 1968s penny uncirculated,I have a canvass bag of $50.00 worth pennies from U.S.ASSAY OFFICE S.F. MINT

    1.  Avatar
      Anonymous

      Loriamar,

      Individually, uncirculated 1968-S Lincoln cents won’t fetch too much in typical uncirculated grades — 2 cents to 3 cents each if you sold them to a coin dealer on an individual basis. If you have a $50 face bag straight from the U.S.Mint though — and it’s still sealed — you might find an eager buyer who will pay more, perhaps as much as $200 to $300 for the whole bag — maybe more, perhaps a little less though.

      The real value in such a bag as yours comes in finding either what collectors call Gem specimens (very well struck, spotless, undamaged uncirculated coins) or minor varieties and errors.

      The one major issue with bags though, especially when they contain copper coins like yours, is that they are notoriously responsible for causing nicks, scratches, scuff marks, and toning, especially after over 40 years. There could be some nice finds in there, though.

      Good luck!

  3. Rhonda Avatar
    Rhonda

    i have a silver in color penny dated 1999 minted in denver it doesnt stick to a magnet a fraction larger than a regular penny and smaller than a nickel does anyone know about it?

    1.  Avatar
      Anonymous

      Hi Rhonda,

      I could explain the silver color as being either the coating of copper missing from the coin (which would make it worth $50 to $100) or a regular penny that was chemically altered by private experimentation — fairly common for school kids to do such things.

      Unless it’s a real error involving missing copper (caused by a Mint mistake), your piece isn’t worth anything more than face value.

      As to why it’s apparently a fraction larger than a regular penny I can’t say.

  4. jnttbarrera Avatar
    jnttbarrera

    i found a pennie dated in the earlies 50’s. i think it is a 1952 D. my eyes are old lol. anyways it is metal of some kind and it sticks to a magnet.

    1.  Avatar
      Anonymous

      Hi, JN —

      Without seeing the coin, I can’t say for certain why it sticks to a magnet (copper doesn’t stick to magnets). Perhaps your coin was coated with a magnetic metal…

  5. Davidandmiki Avatar
    Davidandmiki

    i have some coins from mom,s collection.need information on 3 pennies that are silver looking one side is lincoln and the other side is a wheat picture and it is 1943 and it states that it is unc. there are 3 of them and r they rare.msh

    wheat

    1.  Avatar
      Anonymous

      Hi, David —

      Your pennies are steel cents that were made in 1943. If they have no wear and are fully uncirculated, each is worth around $1 to $2. If they’re worn, however, each is worth 25 cents or so.

      While 1943 steel pennies aren’t rare, they’re extremely hard to find in circulation anymore and make perfect additions to any coin collection!

  6. Jim Avatar
    Jim

    I have a 1934 penny, copper color with Lincoln on the front and a picture of a boat on the back with the inscription The Morro Castle Fire. There is an edge on this coin on the side with Lincoln, but not on the side with the boat.

  7. 19jim Avatar
    19jim

    i have i 1958 penny is that rare

    1.  Avatar
      Anonymous

      Jim,

      1958 pennies aren’t really rare, but because of the wheat ear design on the back of pennies from 1909 to 1958, all coins of that date range are getting removed from circulation by those who want to save these pennies with the now-obsolete design.

      While your coin is common in that hundreds of millions were made, it’s still worth 3 to 5 cents, which is more than face value.

  8. rdreckmann Avatar
    rdreckmann

    I discovered a Lincoln head copper penny without a date and mint mark is it rare.

  9. rdreckmann Avatar
    rdreckmann

    I discovered a Lincoln head copper penny without a date and mint mark is it rare.

  10. Janrichgmr Avatar
    Janrichgmr

    I have been looking over some of my old coins. I have a 1920 ad 1935 mercury head dimes, pretty worn. I have a 1936 buffalo/indian head nickel, also pretty worn. i have a mint condition 1993 silver dollar (says: “1.oz. fine silver” on the back). I have a 1943 silver half dollar. are any of these worth anything?

    1.  Avatar
      Anonymous

      Yes, Jan, each of your coins are worth more than face value. Here’s a breakdown of the values for each of your coins:

      1920 and 1935 Mercury dimes: $2 to $3 each
      1936 Buffalo nickel: 50 cents to $1
      1943 Walking Liberty half dollar $8 to $10
      1993 American Silver Eagle $35

  11. Dughur Avatar
    Dughur

    wouldn’t it be better to sell the liberty half dollars today at per silver ounce prices instead of the coin value of 8-10 dollars

    1.  Avatar
      Anonymous

      That depends, Dughur. If your Liberty half dollars are scarce dates or they are in better grades (say, for example, only lightly worn or uncirculated), then you’re better off selling them for their numismatic value. However, if your pieces are common dates and well worn, then their numismatic value and silver bullion value are essentially the same. The $8 to $10 price you’re quoting is from when silver prices were a tad lower than they are at this time.

  12. Sweetbtfl8 Avatar
    Sweetbtfl8

    How and whom do I go to too sell my coin and get the values worth?

  13. Bill_debi Gilson Avatar
    Bill_debi Gilson

    Why is there such a price difference in the redbook and the blackbook for the same coin?

    1.  Avatar
      Anonymous

      Bill,

      Whenever price guide publishers publish prices, they are usually compiled by sampling dealers’ prices, interviewing dealers, taking trends from sales and final prices, and various other methods; also bullion values are factored in for coins that are largely bought and sold on metals prices. Based on what methods are used and when the prices are done, you can easily spot some discrepancies between the various price lists.

  14. william Avatar
    william

    how much is a 1902 indianhead penny worth
     

    1. JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide Avatar
      JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide

      William,

      A 1902 Indian Head cent in typical, worn condition is worth around $3.

  15. Dean Vanluven Avatar

    i am looking for a OFFICIAL 1965 BLACKBOOK UNITED STATES COINS 2nd Edition, and OFFICIAL 1964 BLACKBOOK UNITED STATES COINS 1st Edition. if anyone has one for sale or know where i can get them please e mail me at daycrow2000yahoo.com.subject OFFICIAL 196? BLACKBOOK UNITED STATES COINS ?nd Edition. that way i wont over look it and deleat it.

    1. JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide Avatar
      JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide

      Hi, Dean –

      You may have great luck searching eBay. Let us know if you find the editions you’re looking for!

  16. HowwCoins Avatar
    HowwCoins

    It probably isn’t valuable unless it is in a Extra Fine Condition to Uncirculated.

  17. HowwCoins Avatar
    HowwCoins

    That’s a good coin to keep, but isn’t any more than then about $1-$3 or so.

  18. Tami W. Avatar
    Tami W.

    Hi, I need some info please. I have a 1943 steel penny with an S on top of another letter (I think it is another S) I can’t find a value for it. I see people talking about a D on top of a D but nothing about the S on top of another letter. Can you tell me if this is worth anything?? There are also a couple other letters on the back that look doubled up but I can’t be sure if just looks like it to me. I am really confused by this coin and why no one mentions it anywhere. Can you tell me if you have an answer I would appreciate any help. I did weigh it and it is for sure the steel penny lol unfortunately not the copper one. Thanks in advance

    1. JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide Avatar
      JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide

      Hi, Tami –

      Would you mind posting a photo of your 1943 steel cent here in the comments section so I can try and attribute it?

      Thank you!

      1. Tami W. Avatar
        Tami W.

        Yes of course

        1. JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide Avatar
          JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide

          Hi, Tami –

          Thank you for posting that great photo. From what I can tell from the image, it appears your 1943-S exhibits machine doubling, which means the die bounced off the coin during the striking process, creating a shadowy second image. Such pieces can be worth $3 to $5.

  19. cos Avatar
    cos

    i have an EF 1909-o dime i paid like 9 bucks was that worth it thanx

    1. JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide Avatar
      JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide

      It sounds like you did well, Cos! A 1909-O Barber dime in Extremely Fine usually has a book value of at least $40 to $45.

  20. Jenise Avatar
    Jenise

    I have a 1878 Morgan silver dollar and that is darn near perfect condition. A few, very very few, dings. It has 7 tail feathers and this coin has very precise edging & raised lettering. It is not wore at all on either side. What would you think it would be worth?

    1. JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide Avatar
      JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide

      Hello, Jenise —

      Would you please send a pic of your 1878 Morgan dollar so I can make an approximate value determination?

      Thank you!
      -Josh

  21. George M. Tuson Avatar
    George M. Tuson

    FYI all. The red book gives prices that you would expect to pay for coins from a dealer. In other words, the retail value. However, if you want to sell your coins, the blue book gives the wholesale value and what the dealer will likely pay. The red book prices are higher than the blue book prices.

  22. Cheryl Robert Avatar
    Cheryl Robert

    Why is the 2000 $1 Silver Eagle not listed in the red book? They have 2000(W) and 2000P

    thanks

    1. JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide Avatar
      JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide

      Hi, Cheryl —

      It is, except the regular-issue uncirculated (or “bullion”) coins were minted at the West Point (W) Mint, while proof versions were struck at the Philadelphia Mint.

      I hope this clarifies the matter!
      Josh

  23. Candee Avatar
    Candee

    I have a 1972 E. Dollar coin. It’s got only little bit of a mint mark on the neck. The Land I in liberty are barly there. The United States is type 2 but not sure. The eye of the eagle is different from the others. No eye brow it looks like. One of the stars is not right. The coun just does not look the same. I am new to this. Is there any where I can have somebody look at this and tell me if it’s even worth grading?

    1. JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide Avatar
      JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide

      Hi, Candee —

      Would you please post a couple clear photos of this coin, front and back, and I’ll see what I can do to help or at least guide you to a source who can?

      Thanks!
      Josh

        1. JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide Avatar
          JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide

          Hi, Candee —

          This is definitely a Philadelphia-minted 1972 Ike dollar. Based on the features I see on planet Earth, it does appear this is a Type 3 reverse. Here’s a guide to assist you with the reverse types: https://eisenhowerdollarguide.com/1972-eisenhower-dollar-varieties/

          Assuming this checks out as a Type 3 with an in-hand evaluation or grading, the value of this piece is easily $10 to $15 for a lightly worn specimen. However, I think this may be a low-end uncirculated based on what I see in the images, meaning it’s probably closer to being a $20 coin.

          Cool find!
          Josh

      1. Candee Avatar
        Candee

        Thanks for looking and the advise. I’ve got a little collection, but it has never been looked at. Anywhere I could have this done? Also I just found a 1979 dime with no mint mark and lettering cut off. Is it possible for you to look at this one? https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/b8a5cb362d999ef7619150894306acf06849ad485fd74bc4c4cb71ca9fa4e402.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/e25887a9b376151124da262f959d6bd15768886bc1b5937c12f99139884dbac2.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/82371a7d089f201c4648dc19f050c725848956cba3e08e58ea5e2de770f6de63.jpg

  24. Richard S Avatar
    Richard S

    I have a 1864 2-cent piece with the large motto(In God We Trust) that looks like it was never circulated. What is the market value and where would I get top dollar because it is in such fine condition?

    1. JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide Avatar
      JoshuaTheFunTimesGuide

      Hi, Richard —

      Would you please post a couple clear images of your coin so I can provide you with a more accurate opinion on its value?

      Thank you so much,
      Josh

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